A week in the Atlantic – Diving, jeep tours and adventures on the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo
I have recently returned from a week in the Atlantic on the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo. A fantastic trip where I had the chance to experience the lush green island of Madeira and its sandier neighbor Porto Santo. Two unique gems in the middle of Atlantic.
Wood is really something for those who want to do more than just dive on holiday, or maybe travel with someone who doesn't dive at all. On the first day we started with a full-day jeep safari straight through the mountains. An experience that offered everything from breathtaking views and adrenaline-filled off-road driving to a short hike in levadas, (levadas are irrigation channels up in the mountains), wine tasting and finally an introduction to the local classic Poncha. A perfect start to the trip that quickly gave a feel for what the island has to offer.
Diving in Funchal – Marine life and wreck diving
Days two and three were completely dedicated to diving. We were picked up at the hotel and taken to Cipreia Dive Center in Funchal, where our fantastic guides Hernan and Jessi welcomed us with open arms. After a briefing and rigging of equipment, we set off by RIB boat to Garajau Marine Park, where we did two great dives. Here we saw large groupers, trumpetfish, amber jacks, scorpionfish and much more. The surface interval was a nice time on the boat with cookies, snacks and a sea view.
Day three offered wreck diving at the Corveta Afonso Cerqueira, a sunken ship that has become an artificial reef, where you can safely swim in and explore the wreck. An exciting and different experience and a must for wreck enthusiasts!
Porto Santo – Golden beaches and clearer waters
After a few days in Madeira we took the morning ferry (2,5 hours) to Porto Santo. As soon as we arrived at the port the contrast was noticeable – the island is more barren and desert-like with a 9 km long golden sandy beach dominating the landscape. A true paradise for beach lovers!
We dived with Cipreia Porto Santo for two days. The first day we dived the wreck of the Madeirense, which used to operate between the islands. Although it is no longer safe to enter, it was full of marine life. After a break at the harbour café, we headed to Ilhéu de Cima for a reef dive with beautiful rock formations, moray eels and lots of fish.
Day two brought us to another wreck – the Corveta General Pereira D'Eça. This is also an artificial wreck, perfectly adapted for penetration. Here we were met by curious groupers who happily posed for the camera – one of the absolute highlights of the trip!
It is worth noting that diving in Porto Santo is perceived as slightly brighter than in Madeira, thanks to the light sandy bottom compared to Madeira's dark volcanic sand. All the wrecks are quite deep, with the keel around 30 meters, so plan accordingly.
Ending with desert sand and views
Before it was time to take the evening ferry back to Madeira, we had time for a jeep tour around Porto Santo. The island is small, but incredibly varied. We drove off-road to several truly spectacular viewpoints, saw fossil coral reefs that are reminiscent of the time when the island was underwater. We also visited some traditional villages in the mountains and got to taste local specialties.
Porto Santo may be a small island, but it has a big heart. Everyone knows everyone, and the atmosphere is incredibly welcoming. For those who play golf – it also has one of the best golf courses in Europe.
Last evening and return home
On the way back to Madeira we tried dinner in the ferry’s à la carte restaurant – a really good 3-course meal with a view of the sea. A few hours later it was time to say goodbye to the Atlantic and head for the airport.
Tired but full of impressions from seven magical days filled with adventures both above and below the surface.
Tips for those of you considering a similar trip:
- Combine Madeira and Porto Santo – you get the best of both worlds.
- Pack both diving equipment and hiking shoes.
