The feeling when Iandar at the airport in Kooddoo to experience diving in southern Maldiverna is to step into a quiet, little paradise, far from major international hubs and beyond most things.
I step off the small regional plane that has brought me here from the Maldivian capital, Malé. Straight out into the warm, humid sea air, surrounded by lush palm trees, you see incredibly blue water.
The airport basically consists of just a single runway and a small building, which is in total contrast to giant airports like Heathrow, Istanbul, Dubai or Copenhagen, etc. The luggage arrives quickly, within just a few minutes.
A representative from the liveaboard meet us directly on site to take us to the boat.
You step aboard and after settling into your cabin, you are soon whisked away across a clear blue sea. During this week in what many call “The Wild Maldives”, I live aboard a liveaboard. Here I have the opportunity to explore remote atolls and dive in dramatic locations where large pelagic species are a part of everyday life.
The most famous are probably Fuvahmulah and Addu. Fuvahmulah is unique in that it is a former volcano and not a naturally formed coral atoll and consists of only one island.
Why do I choose a liveaboard in the southern Maldives?
You will notice that there are significantly fewer divers here than in the central atolls. The waters are known for having far more large pelagic species. Encounters with tiger sharks, thresher sharks, hammerhead sharks, banded sharks, guitar sharks, stingrays and eagle rays, swordfish and manta rays are regular here.
This route will take me past Fuvahmulah, which has become famous for its tiger sharks and the Tiger Zoo dive site. The tiger shark capital of this isolated volcanic island, which is truly different from the typical ring-shaped atolls that otherwise make up the country.
The volcano is long extinct and inactive and on land the island is covered by deep fertile soil with fruit plantations and a freshwater lake surrounded by lush vegetation. The diving around the island is characterized by steep slopes down into the depths. Pebble beaches and nutrient-rich soil instead of the usual shallow lagoons.
Here at Fuvahmulah, tiger sharks gather regularly (basically every day all year round) and sometimes encounters with rarer species such as thresher sharks, mantas and even lumpfish appear in the blue water. The highlight was when some swordfish and marlins pass in the blue and from time to time the largest fish in the sea, the whale shark, shows itself.
Addu Atoll
When you cross the equator you will continue down to the Addu Atoll. Here we experience the largest wreck in the Maldives and lots of manta rays. The wreck British Loyalty from World War II is a fantastic experience and is suitable for those with a little more experience. The wreck is covered in marine life with black coral, gorgonians, whip coral, sponges and both soft and hard corals of various kinds. Lots of fish and large groupers and a little outside a school of eagle rays and various reef sharks pass.
What makes Addu one of the world's best dive sites is the manta rays that come into the cleaning stations here. These majestic animals can be seen here all year round.
Even if you stay on Addu in a guesthouse you will get this very special experience. Addu atoll is special because you can actually cycle here between the islands. A whole 18 km cycle path connects the islands. This makes Addu an unusual contrast and experience compared to the northern and central small islands.
The reefs here in the southern Maldives are healthier and in better condition than the central parts. Here you have a calmer and more varied marine environment as a contrast to the fast-paced shark dives. A lovely combination with colorful reefs for relaxation.
Due to the currents here, this part of the Maldives is best suited for divers with intermediate to advanced experience. The liveaboards usually require a minimum of 75 dives so that the guides don't have to focus on individual divers.
You will also get more out of diving here if you have this experience.
